The Ocean House: Fabulous at 40
By the time Janet Hart-Barbato graduated from elementary school, she had already perfected the art of proper bed making while accompanying her grandmother on housekeeping rounds at family-owned cottages. This early training was the first of many steps along Hart-Barbato’s route to becoming the hospitality honcho at the revered Ocean House in Dennis Port.
One of the annual rites of spring on Cape Cod is the much-anticipated reopening of The Ocean House. This year marks the fortieth anniversary of the first service at this landmark locale. Statistically speaking, approximately eighty percent of restaurants will close their doors within five years. Despite the occasional turbulent seas, The Ocean House remains a sought-after dinner spot favored by both year-round and seasonal residents. After four decades, they have remained at the forefront of the ever-shifting Cape Cod restaurant landscape. They have accomplished this remarkable feat while remaining under the ownership of three generations of the Hart family.
In 1983, The Ocean House began its operations on a panoramic expanse of land overlooking Nantucket Sound purchased by the family back in the 1960s. The site, with its million-dollar seascape, was developed from the ground up over a two-year stretch. This prime real estate was initially occupied by two summer cottages. One was razed and the other moved elsewhere to accommodate the construction of the oceanfront restaurant that included an upstairs owner’s residence. The adjacent acreage houses another Hart family-owned business, the Three Seasons Resort, which was developed in three distinct phases.
Adam and Virginia Hart, Janet’s parents, had a history as seasoned restaurateurs, having previously owned and operated the Island Pagoda (Dennis Port), Café Italia (Dennis Port), and the Wayside Inn (Chatham). “My father was proprietor,” Janet recalls, “my mother was completely hands-on, pitching in wherever needed whether it be bussing tables or slinging cocktails.” Her parents instilled a fierce work ethic in Janet. “Trust me,” she states, “I was given the opportunity to try multiple roles but, there were no handouts.” In the early 1980s, the Harts made the decision to sell their current business, as well as their home in Chatham, in order to center their funds and expertise on opening an oceanfront venue on the family-owned land in Dennis Port. Doors opened in 1983 with seating limited to one hundred guests. From its initial launch, The Ocean House garnered many five-star reviews from Boston food critics lauding both the gourmet cuisine and elevated service. The upscale ambiance, which included tuxedoed waitstaff, coupled with the spectacular vista, made The Ocean House a premier destination for fine dining. Those early glory years opening and running the business hand-in-hand with her parents are cherished memories for Janet Hart-Barbato.
As the years progressed, Janet saw the tides were changing. Guests were moving away from the formality of extreme fine dining, so adjustments were made to stay abreast of the current dining trends. Her decision was to offer a more modern “edgy” cuisine while committing to an atmosphere that felt less pretentious and more guest friendly. Polos and khakis began to appear among the suits and ties.
The end goal is to always offer guests a dining experience that feels like it has been customized for them. In doing so, Janet, along with her co-owner and equal partner, daughter Kari-Anne Hart, relies heavily on a professional staff that she refers to as the “glue” that holds all the important parts together. The low turnover (an astounding 85% employee return) helps the duo keep the focus on hospitality. The women credit their knowledgeable and attentive crew with keeping overall customer satisfaction high. “I think in many ways what sets us apart,” states Kari-Anne, “is our strength as a team to tune into each guest and make them feel truly special.” It is one of the many reasons that The Ocean House is the site of countless celebratory milestones.
The ability to attract new clientele while retaining a core customer base is always an industry challenge but is certainly one of the keys to the continued success of the iconic Ocean House. Janet and Kari-Anne learned early on that consistency must coexist equally between service and food. Enter returning executive chef Tom Woods.
Woods, a Rhode Island native, credits his upbringing in the beachside community of Newport with his life-long love of seafood that ultimately blossomed into a passion for cooking. The Johnson & Wales graduate received his first immersion into a hectic kitchen environment while still a college student in the heavy-volume kitchen at Café Nuovo in Providence, Rhode Island. After graduation, he set his sights on landing a job with one of his cooking idols: chef Ming Tsai. Eventually, his persistence paid off, and he scored a position at Tsai’s Blue Ginger where he was initially given the daunting responsibility of creating the daily amuse bouche. “I would use what was available to create something that captures the flavors of Blue Ginger: heat, acid, spice and salt.” Woods quickly moved up the ladder at Blue Ginger, even accompanying Tsai on food-related travel trips, which had a profound influence on many recipes, including his signature tuna poke dish. In 2013, Tsai and Woods formed a business partnership and opened Blue Dragon in the Fort Point neighborhood of Boston.
Eventually searching for an improved work and family life balance, Woods accepted a post at the exclusive gated community of the Oyster Harbors Club in Osterville. After four seasons, however, he yearned to once again experience the real-world camaraderie of working in a more public space. Friend Dan Lynch, beverage director at The Ocean House, arranged a meeting between Janet, Kari-Anne and Woods. The three quickly realized they shared a similar vision and hammered out an agreement. Everyone left that day excited for the next chapter at The Ocean House. In the spring of 2021, Woods began training for his new role under the guidance of former executive chef Jonathon Haffmans and The Ocean House veteran (25 years) sous-chef, Nick Branchut. Woods credits the two with bringing him quickly up to speed so that he was ready to step in when Haffmans departed for life in New York City.
This year, Woods returns for his third season assisted by an experienced back-of-the-house crew, including his “dream kitchen partner,” Branchut, and Beach Bar head chef Hiram Hernandez. Woods’ own twenty-five-year industry tenure has done little to dim his enthusiasm. “Every spring is like opening a brand-new restaurant, it’s exciting. Janet and Kari-Anne have been the most supportive, challenging and involved owners. I feel humbled to be part of the history here.” He is also proud of being the leader of the most international kitchen team of which he’s been a part.
If you’re planning a maiden voyage to The Ocean House, don’t expect the typical nautical décor. This grand lady was recently awakened early from her off-season slumber by a burst pipe. Workers were left scrambling to meet the deadline of the April relaunch. What has emerged is a beautifully refreshed space boasting new paint, rugs, tile, lighting and the showpiece, a stunning custom banquette that just begs you to sit and sip a martini. Unchanged is the majestic backdrop of Nantucket Sound framed by an entire wall of tall windows.
Adding to the overall sophisticated aesthetic of the space, the stylish Kari-Anne Hart presides over the front desk graciously welcoming incoming guests.
We are led to a lounge-side window table where we are greeted promptly by our server. We toast to The Ocean House’s momentous anniversary with a round of aptly named commemorative cocktails crafted by Dan Lynch. My eyes are immediately drawn to the custom built-in shelving housing a colorful array of garnishes including fresh and dehydrated citrus, berries, herbs, mini cookies and macaroons. Libations here complement the cuisine with the same emphasis on bright, fresh flavors. Oenophiles will also appreciate a wine list that is extensive while providing plenty of “by the glass” choices.
Proving once again that age is just a number, The Ocean House’s spring menu is anything but stuck in the 1980s. Each of the three seasonal menus (spring/summer/fall) is curated by Chef Woods, with final selections approved by Janet and Kari-Anne with input from their management team, the industrious Morgan Ward and Maggie McCormick. The menu celebrates both Woods’ passion for seafood and his penchant for Pan-Asian flavors.
Small plates and mains will excite a variety of palates. Although the menu skews towards seafood, those with other food preferences and dietary restrictions also have great alternatives. Every artfully arranged plate highlights the skill and confidence of this talented kitchen staff. Attention to detail is apparent in every dish, with some modern twists on classic entrées like linguine and clams. Here, the freshest Chatham littlenecks are partnered with Japanese noodles in a spicy sake garlic butter broth to produce the dish Udon Vongole. Woods favors sourcing products close to home whenever possible; thus, his support of local purveyors including Big Rock Oyster, Ring Brothers and Chatham Fish & Lobster.
The popular bento box is a great shared starter. This weekly-changing “chef’s choice” offers us a versatile variety of tasty bites: ahi tuna tataki atop Japanese soba noodles, lobster deviled eggs nestled in a crispy taro nest, Nashville hot oyster sliders sandwiched within a sweet Hawaiian roll, savory red curry chicken dumplings and Vietnamese beef skewers accompanied by a spicy coconut peanut sauce and sweet mango salsa. A feast of flavors and textures.
An exquisitely-plated charred octopus is another standout. Woods notes that this dish is one that “encapsulates that essence of what we are doing here at The Ocean House with flavors and technique.” The secret to the tenderness of the octopus is achieved courtesy of a slow well-seasoned sous-vide method. Calabrian chili oil, Castelvetrano olives, and green garbanzo purée all contribute to this well-thought-out dish.
The kitchen continues to captivate with their “mains”. The Lacquered Chilean Sea Bass is a perfectly pan-seared filet with a slightly sweet crispy crust. Perched atop a bright green spring pea beurre fondue accented with fingerlings and garlic maitake mushrooms, this flaky fish delivers a buttery, velvety mouth feel.
The New York strip is a mouthwatering, well-seasoned 14-ounce Certified Angus Beef steak sure to satisfy the meat lovers in your crew. The generous cut comes paired with a creamed leek polenta cake, garlicky broccoli rabe (try with the lemon thyme aioli) and a rich tomato demi glacé perfect for spooning over beef.
Black Perigord truffles, imported from France, are available as an upgrade to any entrée in season. Freshly shaved table-side by Chef, this delicacy elevates my decadent Risotto Verde (asparagus, English peas, trumpets, mascarpone, Parmigiano-Reggiano) into the stratosphere with an indescribable essence – truly a luxurious treat.
A prerequisite for any visit to The Ocean House is an ending from the sweets list. Pastry Chef Debbie Kimberg, whose flair for chocolate work and inventive use of flavors, produces masterpieces that evoke joy. We order a gratifying espresso dessert flight that pays homage to coffee through a quintet of delectable delights: tiramisu, cinnamon truffles, coffee toffee cremeaux, mudslide crunch and espresso gelato. We blissfully savor the last forkfuls as a glorious sunset unfolds before us, a perfect finish to a most flawless feast.
Reservations at this ever-popular restaurant are possible but in high demand. To score a table or barstool, your best path is through the online thirty-day rolling reservations on Open Table. A phone call to the restaurant is always an option to check for any last-minute cancellations. Walk-ins are always welcome with seating subject to availability.
The adjacent outdoor Beach Bar is a family-friendly, more casual alternative with its own identity. This lively “come as you are” hangout offers delicious tiki and frozen cocktails that pair well with a menu showcasing Mexican and Asian fare. Classic seafood items including raw bar selections and lobster rolls also make the roster. Live music is nightly (closed Mondays) from 5-8 pm. Kari-Anne’s 20-year-old son, college student Colin, manages the kitchen and staff at the Beach Bar. Like the generations prior, he has been expected to learn from the ground up starting as a team member on the grounds crew at the age of fifteen.
After forty years, restaurateurs Janet and Kari-Anne do not rest on their laurels. Despite their establishment consistently landing on many of the “best of” dining lists, the women are never satisfied with accolades but rather are motivated by them to keep stepping it up. Complacency is not a word in this dynamic duo’s vocabulary. Perfection is something these women and all their team members strive towards to allow for continued growth and success. “Change,” Janet says, “is good, as long as it’s for the better. We never want our guests to be bored.” Reflecting on her storied history with The Ocean House, Janet notes, “Guests can go anywhere to dine. When they choose us, it’s a compliment. Kari-Anne and I want to thank our loyal friends who have been patronizing us for years and also those who are discovering us for the first time. We also have a huge debt of gratitude to the hundreds of team members throughout the years. Without all of you, who would we even be?”
Cheers to many more decades of memorable meals, exemplary service and breathtaking sunsets at The Ocean House.
Vanessa Stewart has spent almost four decades in the restaurant business, where she’s worked almost every job imaginable. Her forte is as a “libationist”, and nothing excites her more than not only a restaurant, but a bar that incorporates the freshest of ingredients.
The Ocean House
425 Old Wharf Road, Dennis Port
508-394-0700
oceanhouserestaurant.com
